Exposed-fastener metal roofing is the familiar ribbed panel screwed straight through its face to the roof framing, with a rubber washer under each screw head to seal the hole. It is the least expensive metal roof, the standard on barns and sheds, and a fair choice for cabins, porches and budget homes. The trade-off is simple: thousands of screws through the weather surface, which means lower cost up front and more attention to fasteners over the years.
What exposed-fastener metal roofing is
The panels are wide sheets of coated steel, usually three feet of coverage per panel, with ribs or corrugations running the long way to add stiffness and carry water. Each panel overlaps the next by one rib. Screws with a hex head and a bonded rubber washer go through the panel into the purlins or deck below, in a pattern set by the manufacturer. You see every screw from the ground, which is where the name comes from. In the trade you will also hear it called screw-down, through-fastened or face-fastened metal.
Common profiles include:
- R-panel and PBR panel, with tall trapezoid ribs about a foot apart; PBR adds a purlin-bearing leg at the overlap for a better seal.
- Ag panel, the classic farm profile with low ribs about nine inches apart, usually in 29 gauge.
- Corrugated, the wavy 7/8 inch profile with a vintage industrial look, and the squarer 7.2 panel used on modern buildings.
- 5V crimp, a low, flat panel with paired V-ribs that is a tradition on Southern and Gulf Coast cottages.
- U-panel, a budget panel with small ribs, mostly for sheds and liner use.
Gauge is where the quality lives. Agricultural panels are commonly 29 gauge, which is thin. For a house, 26 gauge is the sensible minimum, and some homeowners choose 24. The paint is either SMP, a silicone-modified polyester, or PVDF, the premium finish sold under names like Kynar 500. Most exposed-fastener panels come in SMP, and that is fine for the price point.
How it is installed
Panels are roll formed at a factory or a local supplier and cut to length, so most arrive ready to go up. On a barn, they are screwed to wood or steel purlins with nothing underneath. On a house, they go over a solid deck with underlayment, often with furring strips to create an air gap and a flat screw base.
- Remove the old roof, or confirm that one flat layer of shingles can stay under furring strips.
- Repair the deck and install synthetic underlayment, with self-adhered membrane at eaves and valleys in cold climates.
- Install eave trim and, where used, furring strips or purlins at the spacing the panel requires.
- Set the first panel square to the eave, then work across the roof, overlapping one rib each time and screwing in the specified pattern.
- Add lap screws along each overlap, and foam closures shaped to the panel at the eave and ridge.
- Finish with ridge cap, rake trim, pipe boots and wall flashing, with butyl tape under the laps where the manufacturer calls for it.
Screw technique matters more here than on any other roof. The screw has to go in straight and be snug enough to compress the washer slightly without crushing it. Overdriven screws split the washer and dimple the panel. Underdriven screws leave a gap. A good crew sets the depth on their drivers and checks as they go.
Where exposed-fastener metal fits
Roof pitch. Most profiles are rated for about 3:12 and steeper, with some allowing lower slopes if the laps are sealed with butyl tape. Check the manufacturer minimum for the exact panel. A 5V crimp panel, with its low ribs, needs more slope than an R-panel to shed water reliably.
Climate. Screw-down roofs do well in rain and snow and are strong in wind when screwed to the pattern. Where they struggle is in places with large daily temperature swings and intense sun, which age the washers and work the screws loose as long panels expand and contract. Hail can dent thin 29 gauge panels. Near salt water, standard steel panels corrode at cut edges and screw holes faster than elsewhere, so look at aluminum or a different system if you are on the coast.
Building style. Barns, workshops, sheds, carports and pole buildings are the natural home of exposed-fastener metal. On houses it suits farmhouses, cabins, cottages and modern designs that lean into the industrial look. Corrugated and 5V crimp panels in particular have real charm on the right house. It is not the choice for a formal colonial or a house where the budget allows standing seam.
Pros and cons
Pros
- Lowest cost of any metal roof
- Fast installation with common tools
- Many profiles and colors available locally
- Wide panels cover a roof with few seams
- Easy to repair by replacing screws or a panel
- Light weight and recyclable
Cons
- Thousands of screw holes through the weather surface
- Washers age and fasteners loosen, so it needs periodic checks
- Thin 29 gauge panels dent easily
- Fewer finish and weathertightness warranties than standing seam
- Less refined look that some neighborhoods and HOAs reject
Approximate 2026 cost
As a broad national range, exposed-fastener metal roofing runs roughly $6 to $12 per square foot installed in 2026 on a house, or about $600 to $1,200 per roofing square. A 29 gauge ag panel on an open-frame barn can come in well under that. A 26 gauge R-panel with a PVDF finish over a solid deck with underlayment, furring and full trim sits toward the top of the range, and complex roofs go above it.
These are approximate numbers, not quotes. Pricing varies by region, pitch, roof complexity, gauge and paint, whether the old roof is removed, deck repairs and the season, and steel coil prices move. Three written bids will tell you where your project lands. For the bigger picture, read the metal roof cost guide and metal roof vs asphalt shingles.
What to ask the installer
Because the panels are simple, the questions are about gauge, finish and, above all, the fasteners.
Confirm licensing where required, liability and workers compensation insurance, a written contract that names the panel, gauge, color, fastener type and screw pattern, and a permit where your town requires one. Our guide on choosing a metal roofing contractor covers the rest.
Common mistakes and red flags
Plan for maintenance from day one. An exposed-fastener roof should have its screws checked by a roofer every few years and a full fastener refresh somewhere around the 10 to 20 year mark, depending on climate. Replacement screws go in one size larger so they bite fresh wood. Never climb up to check them yourself; this is a job for a roofer with fall protection. Our metal roof maintenance guide explains what to watch for from the ground.
Related guides
If the fastener upkeep gives you pause, compare the hidden-fastener alternative in standing seam metal roofing. For a tour of every panel shape, read metal roof panel profiles explained, and for the thickness question see metal roof gauge explained. Find installers who list this style at the exposed-fastener directory or search by state at Find a Metal Roofer.
Frequently asked questions
How long does an exposed-fastener metal roof last?
The panels themselves commonly last 30 to 50 years, with 26 gauge panels and a PVDF finish at the long end and 29 gauge panels with a polyester finish at the short end. The fasteners are the weak link. Their washers age in sun and heat, and panels loosen them as they expand and contract, so most screw-down roofs need fasteners checked and some replaced after 10 to 20 years to reach their full life.
Do exposed-fastener roofs leak?
Not when they are installed and maintained correctly, but they have thousands of holes that a standing seam roof does not have, and each one depends on a rubber washer. Overdriven, underdriven or crooked screws, missing closures and worn washers are the usual causes of leaks. The fix is normally simple: back out the bad screw and replace it with a slightly larger one with a fresh washer.
Is 29 gauge metal roofing good enough for a house?
It works on barns and sheds and is used on some budget homes, but 26 gauge is a better choice for a house. The thicker panel resists dents from hail and foot traffic, holds screws better and tends to carry a longer finish warranty. The price difference per square foot is modest compared with the total cost of the job, and you are living under it for decades.
Should the screws go in the flat or on the rib?
Follow the panel manufacturer. Most manufacturers of R-panel, PBR and ag panels specify screws in the flat next to the rib, where the panel sits firmly on the framing and the washer can seal properly. Screws through the top of a rib are harder to seal and can crush the rib. Some corrugated profiles are different, so the printed installation guide for your panel is the final word.
Can I put an exposed-fastener roof over my shingles?
Often, yes, over one layer of flat shingles where code allows, usually with furring strips or purlins screwed through the shingles into the rafters so the panels have solid attachment and an air space. The old roof must be dry, the deck solid and the furring layout matched to the screw pattern. Our guide on installing metal over shingles covers the details and the cases where tear-off is the better call.